Wednesday, January 25, 2017

Winter Wool Coat

The finished garment

Last fall I took a couple college classes, one in pattern drafting and the other in tailoring. These two classes gave me the foundations I need for creating my own clothing and I have enjoyed making several items from scratch since then. In our pattern drafting class we had our measurements taken so we could pretty much design any kind of clothing we wanted from our basic blocks. 

I found this really pretty woven fabric from Mood and knew I wanted to make a winter coat from from it. I began with an idea I had in mind and sketched it out on paper first. I wanted a wide collar, an overlapping front, and it had to be knee length. Either way, I wanted it to fit my own frame perfectly.

Drafting the pattern

Mock up created from the original pattern

Coat Lining

The coat is fully lined in matching light brown satin. It's smooth and slick putting it on and taking it off.

Catch stitching the inner garment

The inner construction was very involved and isn't seen on the finished garment. I used traditional tailoring techniques and catch stitched in hair canvas. The woven fabric is 100% wool and easy to work with. Wool is such a versatile fiber and can be molded however you want with steam and heat and the hair canvas gives it a nice foundation to sit on.

Buttonhole mock up

While I was constructing the garment I knew I wanted bound buttonholes to fit my large 2" buttons. I took the extra time needed to do them properly and made a sample first so I could get the technique correct.

Creating the bound buttonholes

The finished garment fits perfectly and turned out beautifully. It was a ton of work but I'm glad I created it.

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